Putting drywall on a basement ceiling is a bigger project than it looks. I did mine over two weekends and learned some things the hard way.
Why Drywall
A drop ceiling is easier to install and gives you access to plumbing and electrical. But it looks like a drop ceiling – that commercial office vibe. Drywall gives you a finished look that makes the basement feel like actual living space.
The tradeoff is permanence. Once that drywall is up, getting to the pipes and wires above means cutting through it. Make sure everything up there is in good shape before you close it in.
Which Drywall to Use
Standard drywall works, but basements are humid. Moisture-resistant drywall (green board) handles humidity better. For serious dampness issues, consider mold-resistant board.
If noise from upstairs is a concern, soundproof drywall exists. It’s heavier and pricier but makes a real difference if your basement is a bedroom or media room.
The Installation
Measure and mark your joist locations. You’ll be screwing into them, so know where they are before you start lifting sheets.
Overhead drywall is awkward. Rent or buy a drywall lift – trying to hold sheets up while driving screws will wreck your shoulders. A helper makes the job much faster.
Screw every 12 inches along the joists. Sink the screws just below the surface without breaking through the paper. Too deep and you’ve weakened the hold.
Taping and Mudding
This is where most DIY ceiling jobs look amateur. Apply paper tape over all joints, embed in joint compound, and feather out the edges. Let it dry completely between coats – three coats total is standard.
Sand between coats and at the end. Ceiling imperfections show more than walls because light hits them at an angle. Take your time here.
Practical Considerations
Leave access panels for things you’ll need to reach – shut-off valves, junction boxes, cleanouts. It’s annoying to cut one later.
Insulation above the drywall helps with both noise and temperature control if your basement gets cold.
