The Wood Glues I Actually Use in My Workshop

Own more wood glue than I probably need. Most of it sits unused. Here’s what actually comes off the shelf regularly.

For Most Stuff: Titebond II

Yellow PVA glue. Water resistant (not waterproof but resistant). Dries in reasonable time. Cleans up with water while wet. Strong enough for furniture.

This handles 80% of what I build. Maybe 90%. Reasonably priced, available everywhere.

For Outdoor Projects: Titebond III

Actually waterproof. Costs a bit more. Takes longer to cure. Worth it for anything that lives outside or gets wet regularly.

Don’t waste it on indoor furniture. II is fine for that.

Gorilla Glue (The Foamy Kind)

Polyurethane formula. Expands to fill gaps. Useful when joints aren’t perfect. Creates a strong bond but messier to work with.

Wear gloves. Seriously. The foam stains everything and won’t come off your skin for days.

CA Glue (Super Glue)

Instant bond. Great for small repairs, holding things while other glue dries, filling small cracks with sawdust. Every shop needs some.

Not structural. Don’t use it for joints that take stress.

What I Skip

Expensive specialty glues for situations I never encounter. Two-part epoxies unless I’m doing something specific. “Professional grade” versions of standard glues that cost twice as much.

Application Matters More

Thin, even coat on both surfaces. Enough clamp pressure to squeeze out a little glue but not so much you starve the joint. Wait for full cure before stressing the joint.

Technique beats premium products every time.

Sarah Collins

Sarah Collins

Author & Expert

Sarah Collins is a licensed real estate professional and interior design consultant with 15 years of experience helping homeowners create beautiful living spaces. She specializes in home staging, renovation planning, and design trends.

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